We returned to Tokunoshima for the first time since 2023, and once again basked its natural beauty and the warmth of the family and friends we reconnected with there. Nestled in the Ryukyu chain between Kyushu and Okinawa, the island is wrapped in emerald waters, coral reefs, and all the lushness of a subtropical paradise. It was my first time visiting during tsuyu, the rainy season that runs from mid-May through June, and the stormy weather certainly lived up to its reputation. Luckily, we somehow managed to dodge the worst of it throughout our five-day stay.

Like many parts of rural Japan, Tokunoshima’s population has declined over time as younger generations have relocated to larger mainland cities for work and education. From a peak of about 60,000 in the 1960s, the population is down to around 20,000 today. Despite this trend, some signs of renewal are also emerging: driven by a desire for respite from city life, a growing number of young adults are choosing to leave urban centers and return to their rural hometowns. Tokunoshima’s global status also got a boost in 2021 with its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while local initiatives are injecting fresh cultural energy into the community. One standout example is Ocean Gaia, Japan’s first underwater sculpture, a stunning bio-friendly installation on the island’s western coast that doubles as an artificial reef for marine life.